M3-CRETE Frame Assembly

These development notes describe the reference frame sequence in plain language for qualified technical teams. They do not establish structural adequacy, load capacity, accuracy, or assembly safety and do not replace engineering review, measured inspection, guarding, or an approved work plan.

Part
1 of 4
Time
A day
Difficulty
Beginner
Helpers
2 people
Safety

The aluminum beams are long and heavy, and cut ends can be sharp. Wear eye protection, work with a helper for the big pieces, and watch your fingers at every joint (pinch points). Use adhesive in a ventilated space.

What you need

Tools:

Parts (all from the M3-CRETE Bill of Materials — export the list and check off each item first):

Words to know

Extrusion
An aluminum beam with slots along its sides. "4080" and "2040" are sizes.
C-beam
An extrusion shaped like the letter C. The open channel hides and protects the belt.
T-nut
A small nut that slides into the beam's slot so you can bolt things on anywhere.
V-wheel
A wheel with a V-shaped groove that rolls along the V-edge of a beam.
Eccentric spacer
A spacer with an off-center hole. Turning it pushes a wheel tighter or looser against the beam.
Gantry
The bridge that carries the print head and slides along the rails.
Z-post
An upright beam. The gantry moves up and down these.
Plumb / square / tram
Plumb = perfectly upright. Square = corners are true 90°. Tram = everything lined up flat and even.
GT2 belt
A toothed rubber belt that the motors pull to move the axes.
Hub disk / idler
Pulleys the belt wraps around to change direction (used on the Z-axis).

How the frame is designed (read this first)

A few design choices make M3-CRETE easier to build. Knowing them up front prevents mistakes:

Build it

1

Lay out and check every part

Open the BOM and lay the parts out by type. Confirm every 4080 C-beam is the same length and the count matches. Finding a wrong or missing part now is much easier than after assembly.

2

Build the base rectangle

Join the bottom beams into a rectangle using the 5-screw corner plates and T-nuts. Keep the C-channel openings facing inward. Tighten the screws only snug for now — we square it before final tightening.

3

Square the base

Measure the two diagonals of the rectangle (corner to opposite corner). Gently tap with the mallet until both diagonals are equal — that means the corners are true 90°. Now tighten all corner screws firmly.

Why it matters

If the base is not square, every layer the printer makes will be skewed. Five extra minutes here saves hours later.

4

Stand the Z-posts

Bolt an upright Z-post at each corner of the base using corner plates. Use the level to make each post plumb (perfectly upright) in both directions before tightening.

5

Add the top brace

Connect the tops of the posts with the top cross-brace. This locks the posts square and also holds the Z motors later. Re-check that the posts are still plumb after tightening.

6

Make the X-beam (the splice)

Join the two X-beam segments end to end with the internal slot-link connector. Then slide the three short V-slot bars inside the C-channel, staggered across the join, and bond them with structural adhesive — the middle bar should sit equally over the join. Keep everything straight, let the adhesive fully cure, then run your finger across the join: it should feel smooth, with no step the wheels would bump over.

7

Fit the V-wheels to the gantry plates

Attach the V-wheels to the gantry plates, using the eccentric spacers on one row. Set the wheels so they sit firmly in the beam's V-edge — snug enough that there is no wobble, loose enough that the wheel still spins freely. You adjust this by turning the eccentric spacers.

Remember

Nothing should stick out past the gantry faces — all bracing is inside the channel. An outside bracket would block the wheels.

8

Mount the gantry and check the roll

Place the gantry onto its rails. Roll it from one end to the other by hand. It should glide smoothly with no rocking and no tight spots. Fine-tune the eccentric spacers until the motion is even along the whole length.

9

Mount the motors

Attach the seven NEMA23 motors with the 3D-printed mounts. The mounting holes are pass-through, so use M5 screws with M5 nuts and a drop of blue threadlocker. The four Z motors sit on the top brace (body up, shaft pointing down) with a hub disk underneath to guide the belt.

10

Route and lightly tension the belts

Run the GT2 belts inside the C-channels — the wider belt on Y, the narrower one on X. For each Z-axis, the belt goes from the hub disk, over the brace, down the post, around an idler at the bottom, and back up to the carriage. Anchor the belt ends and take up the slack using the motor-mount slots. Leave final tensioning for the validation step; for now, just remove the slack.

11

Final check

Re-measure the base diagonals (still equal?), confirm the posts are still plumb, and roll the gantry through its full travel once more. The frame should feel solid with no twist. You are done.

Quick checklist

Print this page and tick the boxes as you go.

If you get stuck

Next

Part 2 — Wiring. Mount the power supply and control board and connect the motors. (Coming soon.) After that comes Part 3 — Software.


M3-CRETE is an experimental open-hardware reference, not a finished certified appliance or construction machine. It is intended for qualified technical users, R&D labs, supervised institutional programs, and experienced builders. Hardware is published under CERN-OHL-W-2.0; this guide is CC BY 4.0.